OK... Here's the last little bit for the fuel tanks. The first thing we need to do is make sure the sender is working. According to my brother, the genius, the best way to apply 12 volts to test stuff on the bench is 8 D batteries in series. Cheap, reliable, easy. I went down to the local Radio Shack, bought 2 sets of D battery holders that hold four each, pop riveted them back to back, and made the appropriate connections. I used a speaker wire connector for the power, so that I could just hold the tab down and insert wire into the power source. We hooked up the sender to power, connected the multimeter to the signal and ground wires, and dipped the sender into a capped PVC pipe with gas in it. Viola!!! it works!!!!

Here's the next thing. A huge part of my reasoning for building an airplane is that I just think it can be better than your average Cessna. This is the reason I'm taking the time to do things like put in capacitive fuel senders, AOA indicators, etc. Also, there are things that you can learn from aviators that passed before you. Fuel mismanagement kills pilots. As a builder, I look carefully at the common reasons for airplanes coming out of the sky at inopportune moments, and try to address them. Adding quality fuel level senders is a start. I'm going a bit further, and I think it's worth it. Here we're installing the Aircraft Extras Fuel Guardian. It's a low fuel warning system that's completely independent of the fuel measuring system. It's basically an optical sensor that you install in the tank at the appropriate level for the amount of fuel that you want it to indicate. When fuel drops below the sensor, a light flashes with a buzzer to indicate to the pilot that fuel is low in that tank. When you acknowledge the alarm by pressing the button, the light on the dash turns solid and stays on til the tank has been filled to a point above the sensor. Simple, effective. I found where others had mounted it for the RV-10, and just copied them. This location should give me around 5.5 gallons in each tank when the buzzer sounds.

Since the sender is pretty long, and it fails if it comes into contact with anything conductive, I put a blob of proseal where the bend comes close to the vent line. That gives it a bit of support, and also electrically isolates the two...And i did the same thing at the tip. Just a blob of proseal that mechanically connects the bottom of the tank to the sender. Gives it a bit of support, and makes sure that the sender can't bounce around and short against the tank.

The internals are done, it's time to close up the tank. More proseal goes around where the tank baffle will be installed.

Now just install the baffle, cleco, and rivet. This is also when the tank attach brackets get installed.